Introduction

I needed a vacation!

Typically I write about places which are 10-12 time zones away, require three plane changes, a local bus, a bumpy boat ride and finally a long slog with dive gear, camera gear and the rest of the mess. Someone suggested the Mexican Rivera – the 100 mile stretch along the Caribbean coast of the Yucatan peninsula. It is a little more than an hour from south Florida and not much more from numerous US cities. Cancun has a modern (beautiful) International airport with many direct international flights.

Yucatan Peninsula

Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula sticks out into the warm waters of both the Gulf of and the Caribbean Sea. Today it contains three Mexican states - Campeche, Yucatan and Quintana Roo. However, its historical roots and many current customs were founded in the Mayan empire, which at its peak included the current countries of Belize, Honduras and Guatemala.

Mayan History

Some of the peninsula's thriving cities were founded in Mayan times. Others are historical ruins, most open to visitors. The most striking are Chichen Itza, Uxmal, Coba and Tulum. Much of the population is of Mayan descent and the Mayan language is still spoken.

The Mayan empire reached its peak from 250 AD - 900 AD with a population estimated to have been higher than today.

The Spanish colonized the peninsula in the 1500's. More than 300 years later the Maya rebelled and eventually regained 90 per cent of their lands but again surrendered to the Mexicans in 1901.

The residents of the Yucatan (Mayan and Mexican) survived by producing salt, fishing, and cultivating henequen, whose fiber was used in the production of rope. With the collapse of henequen production in the 1980's, many unemployed workers moved to the coast looking for tourism jobs.

Mexican Government Development

In the early 60's The Mexican government targeted tourism as a key growth component. The coast of Quintana Roo, specifically Cancun, was the focus of development and Cancun, a small fishing town became a high-end resort at the northern end of the Maya Riviera – an eighty mile coastline running from Cancun to the Mayan ruins of Tulum. The entire area is located a few miles away from the Great Mayan Reef, the second largest reef in the world and an underwater paradise for scuba diving.

Today

There are too many choices. One list has more than 500 places to rent a room with the price ranging from $48 to $562 per night.

There are more than 100 dive operations listed with prices ranging from $30-$60 per tank for diving. Many of the hotels also offer diving through agreements with local shops.

I looked on the internet, filled out diving requests and received prices in return. I was pleased with one shop but when I asked about their boat they replied that it depended on which one was available to rent.

I reduced the number of dive operations to about 38. From there I filtered by PADI and selected Pluto Divers.

Pluto Divers took us straight to large schools of Sailors Choice and Porkfish

Pluto Divers (A week of diversity and play.)

Pluto Divers is both a PADI and IANTD shop. The shop is located near great restaurants, bars and lodging. It is five minutes from the beach and the dive boat.

Pluto is owned by Alberto Salvini and Barbara Biasi, two adventuress Italians. Barbara has been diving for 20 years and her professional career includes stops in Italy, Kenya, Cuba and Tanzania before settling in Mexico. She is certified by PADI to teach all of the open water courses as well as some technical courses.

Alberto's career began in Italy, he has both PADI and IANTD certifications. Although he teaches open water courses his love is for caverns and teaching technical skills.

I asked how they described their shop. Barbara's immediate answer was "friendly.' However as the conversation developed there is also a very strong focus on safety and service. They will provide nitrox, at no extra charge, because they believe less nitrogen is safer. The staff handles all the gear, including rinsing and hanging your personal gear.

The maximum number of divers is five to a boat. But, they have the capacity to handle a group of 16 with additional boats and guides. The dive boat was perfect for our group and had ample covering to protect from the sun. Dive sites are 5-20 minutes away. One day returning from our dives we were dropped directly on the beach in front of our hotel.

Next trip I will have Pluto find accommodations near their shop. They can get very competitive rates for lodging. Their tank rates are some of the lowest in town. Save yourself the research and just contact Pluto Dive at http://www.plutodive.com.

Since this was a vacation I did two dives in Cozumel, which is 40-60 minute ferry ride. Two cenote dives, four ocean dives and spend most of one day snorkeling with whale sharks.

Cozumel

Palancar Garden
Minimum depth: 20 ft
Maximum depth: 70 ft
Average visibility: More than 60 ft
Palancar Garden reef offers a wealth of diving experiences without the need to travel far. It is cut by numerous channels and caves. There may be current, but there are many sheltered areas. Sponges adorn the reef, among whip and brain corals. There are black corals in its deeper areas. Butterfly fish, angelfish, parrot fish and damsel fish can always be seen. Nurse sharks are usually seen.

Flounder off Playa del Carmen, 2011

Paradise Reef (As described by a local dive operator)
Paradise Reef is two or three, depending on your guide, separate reefs running parallel to shore approximately 200 yards out. It is the only reef easily accessible to beach divers. Maximum depth is 45 feet. All sections are abundant with marine life of every size, color and description. Expect to see crab, lobster and a plethora of multicolored tropical fish bring some food and be surrounded by angels, blue tangs and yellowtail snappers. Watch your guide feed the spotted morays. Look closely under ledges and in holes and you're likely to spy the reclusive "Splendid Toad Fish" reputed to live nowhere in the world other than Cozumel. Paradise reef is the island's most popular night diving location.

The preceding description is accurate for the reef I dove several times in the late eighties. The only change I would make is that the Splendid Toadfish is nocturnal and is unlikely to be found in the daytime.

Sergeant majors over sandy bottom, 2011

Cenotes

The heart of the cenote zone is a moderate drive from Playa del Carmen. Cenotes are sink holes, or fresh water pools, connecting to submerged caverns.

Cenote Chac Mool
The entrance to Choc Mool is located just south of the main Puerto Adventuras entrance, between Playa del Carmen and Akumal. It is the northernmost of the cave and cavern diving sites in this section of the Yucatan.

The main cavern can be accessed from two different sides. We did two dives beginning at the two different entrances. One takes you through the right side of the cenote and the other through the left side. On a busy day you see divers who came through the other entrance. In the Dome Room, where a portion of the ceiling has collapsed forming an air dome divers can surface and admire beautiful stalactites and some fossils.

Photo from Alberto of Pluto Divers, Playa del Carmen, 2011

From the other entrance there is an amazing light show on sunny days. Sun rays steam in and highlight divers.

Chac-Mool is one of the caverns which has a halocline where salt and fresh water come together creating an interesting visual effect. Imagine your right left eye seeing clearly through your mask. Your right eye, however, appears to be looking a shattered piece of safety glass, except that the cracks shimmer and move. The initially impact is disorienting.

Ocean Dives – Playa del Carmen

Jardines (Gardens)
maximum depth: 40ft
average visibility: 70ft
Jardines is named for its 'garden' like coverage. In addition to a variety of sponges, hard corals and fan corals, the reef is covered in sea whips and other large branching corals that give home to an abundance of marine life including green and spotted moray eels. The Middle of the reef has small overhangs. Look carefully and you will spot smaller fish and invertebrates.

Sergeant major guarding eggs

Sabalos (Tarpon)
maximum depth: 50ft
average visibility: 70ft
Sabalos was originally named after the schools of Tarpon that can still occasionally be seen here. The reef consists of healthy hard and soft corals of all variations. There are many kinds of fish as well as Starfish on the sand. There is a small cavern for exploration.

Barracuda
Maximum depth: 50ft
average visibility: 70ft
Picture this reef as a hand with five fingerlike outcroppings. There are many small holes to explore along the reef and with a sharp eye and some luck you may spot Barracuda patrolling the reef. Near the end of the dive it is worth investigating the shallow cave that will take you to an exit on the top of the reef.

Tortugas (Turtles)
Maximum depth: 100ft
average visibility: 100ft
Tortugas is one of Playa Del Carmen's most popular reefs due to the large number of sea turtles. The reef is relatively flat with a gradual slope from 45ft to 120ft. It is covered with corals and enormous barrel sponges.

Photo from Ocean Tours, Mexico, 2011

Whale Sharks

The whale shark (Rhincodon typus) is a plankton consuming, filter-feeding shark, which lives in tropical and subtropical oceans throughout the world. Neither whales nor mammals despite the name, they are the longest and heaviest of all fishes, between 25 and 35 feet long. Whale sharks have been listed since 2010 as "vulnerable" by the International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN).

The actual number of whale sharks inhabiting the world's oceans is unknown. Aggregations ranging from a few individuals to a few dozen have been reported from at least eight tropical locations around the world - all associated with high concentrations of zooplankton.

The largest aggregation ever reported was noticed about ten years ago in the area just north of Isla Mujeres off the coast of Cancun. It was determined that they were feeding on eggs recently released by little tunny, Euthynnus alletteratus. In 2009 researchers with Project Domino (a consortium of groups interested in whale shark research and conservation) reported that they had seen 421 whale sharks on a single survey flight in this area. 

The Mexican Government has issued a set of rules governing interacting with the whales:

1. Only on a permitted boat with a certified captain and certified guide
2. Only with snorkel – no scuba
3. Life jack or floating device mandatory
4. Remain at least 6 feet from the Whale Shark, so it's not disturbed.
5. Never touch or cross path with the Whale Shark
6. Bio-degradable sun protection only

To jump into the water with hundreds of them is amazing. Although the total number of sharks is large you actually see a few on the surface near your boat. Once in the water you only see part of the one you are snorkeling with.

Photo from Ocean Tours, Mexico, 2011

The shark is feeding on the surface, you enter the water to the side and in front of the fish, you begin to swim an intercept path, and at the interception point immediately attempt to swim parallel to the fish. Easier said then done.

However, I improved with each try and reached a point where I could see the shark approaching me, and then turn and swim near the side of its head and gills for a minute or two. Then, long before I was ready, I would see the tail disappearing in front of me.

The tour operator is Ocean Tours. They pick you up at your hotel, drive to the departure area where coffee, sweet bread and fruit is provided. Then it is onto the snorkel boat for a 45-60 minute ride to the feeding area. After the snorkeling, which occurs when the whale sharks decide to stop feeding and leave the surface, you are taken to a boat basin near Isla Mujeres for snacks and beer - our captain put together a fresh ceviche on the spot - before returning to the dock and waiting van. See more details about Ocean Tours' whale shark day at www.whaleshark-mexico.com/en/tour-whale-shark/description/.

Conclusion

I began by saying, "I needed a vacation!" This was a great vacation. There are many ways to enjoy the Mayan Rivera. I choose the combination of water sports. I could have chosen a week of Mayan ruins and history, or a week of water themed amusement parks or, as many did, a week of lying in the sun all covered with oil.